Monday, May 12, 2014

Back to basic: blush

Blush is one of the makeup items that everybody has in the makeup bag even if you are not a makeupholic like some of us. It gives a skin healthy look, makes the face look less flat after foundation application. Generally speaking there are no rules to blush application (it's makeup, have fun with it) but some tips and tricks are very useful since it is a colour product.

What to keep in mind when applying a blush:
  • start with less and build the colour slowly, it is easier to put more than get rid of too much (if it happens that you put too much, take your foundation brush to blend the edges and use clean brush to blend the rest of blush), 
  • choose the colour according to your skin undertone, there is a pink with warm undertone as well as with cool one and it just looks better when the blush really suits your skin,
  • use smaller brush for precise application, lot of drugstore blush brushes are huge and you end up applying blush all over your cheek ( even on the spot where the contour and highlight should be), the blush should not pass the half of your eye and should be applied upwards to the temples to lift your cheeks,
  • choose natural bristles brush for powder blush and synthetic bristles brush or hands for liquid and cream blush,
  • tip off excess of the powder blush before the application to avoid fall outs and excessive amount of product on your cheek,
  • don't put too much blush close to the centre of your face as this part tends to be already little bit red, blush would only make it worse, 
  • if your skin is mature and the cheeks are lower as where they used to be, don't smile when applying the blush otherwise it will appear lower once you stop smiling therefore not where it was intended to be.
(left) Sedona Lace FB05 with natural bristles for powder blush, ELF stipple brush with synthetic bristles for cream blush (right) 

Liquid and cream blushes: 
  • are very often advertised as multitasking products that you can use not only on your cheeks but also on the mouth instead of lipstick. On the cheeks, they should be applied before any powder so if you use powder foundation you should stick to powder blushes as well, 
  • liquid and cream forms are great when you want to create that healthy dewy finish or if you have very dry skin and don't want to use any powder product, 
  • they are great for layering when you want to extend the wear of the blush (put the cream blush first then top it with powder one), 
  • they are used to fake suntan (see my post about bronzers for suntanned look here), 
  • some creams/liquids have cream to powder texture which means that you apply them as creams but then, once they set, they change into powder matt finish. They are great for natural finish and can be used on the powder as well (depends on specific product qualities). 
(from left to right) Maybelline Dream Touch blush, Tarte Cheek stain, Benefit Benetint, NYX blush
Blushes come in different finishes, matt, pearl, shimmer and glitter just like eyeshadows and I think it is personal taste what kind of bush you choose to use. I personally put blush with shimmer only when I don't intend to use highlighter so that I don't look like a disco ball. I tend to go for this trio: matt cool tone bronzer for contouring - matt blush - shimmer highlighter (more about contouring here). I reserve blushes with sparkle only for evening, special occasion’s looks.

My favorites:
  • Maybelline Dream touch blushes (cream to powder blush, in any drugstore) 
  • NYX powder blushes (in Germany and in US in some drugstores, otherwise on cherryculture.com) 
  • Benefit box powder blushes (at Sephora) 
  • NARS powder blushes (at Sephora) 
  • Body shop powder blushes